Nagasaki: Day 1

Earlier this spring, two of the LOLs from my church, Mihoko and Kuniko, asked me when my school had summer holidays. A week later, they informed me that they had made plans for us to fly to Nagasaki, the western-most major island in Japan. This past week, four of us embarked on a tour of this multi-faceted historical landmark. Probably most recognized in the United States as the second nuclear bombing target during World War II, Nagasaki has an even greater history than that. During Japan's period of National Isolation (1641-1858), Nagasaki was the only area open to trade. With the tradesmen came Catholic and then later, Christian, missionaries. Thus, Nagasaki is known as the birthplace of Christianity in Japan... But I'm getting ahead of myself... So, let's start at the very beginning (a very good place to start!)





We arrived in Nagasaki early Monday evening. Since it was pouring when we stepped off the airplane, we decided to go immediately to our hotel and from there find dinner. The meal of choice? Saraudon and champon -- two of Nagasaki's "famous" foods. Both "Chinese-influenced" dishes have all kinds of goodies in them -- shrimp, cabbage, carrots, mussels, fish....(and Emily????)




The next morning began with a typical LOL adventure! As we left the hotel, I couldn't help but take a double glance at what first appeared to be a porcelain statute. When it blinked, I realized that in fact it wasn't a doll after all, but a bride dressed in traditional garb. The LOLs were determined that I should have a picture of the happy couple so they interrupted the professional photo shoot, explained that I was a foreigner who wanted a picture (frankly, I didn't care one way or the other) and would greatly benefit from learning about Japanese culture, posed the bride, told the groom to smile..... You can just imagine the scene! Please relish in their very hard work as directors (and, yes, the groom is smiling!!)

Soon we found ourselves climbing up a steep hill towards Oura Catholic Church. Don't let the Dutch-inspired buildings fool you, though; it is still Japan. (The vending machine on every corner was one of many indicators that we hadn't been mysteriously teleported to Holland!)

Catholicism was first introduced to Japan in 1549 by St. Francis Xavier. However, when Japan was closed to other religions, the Japanese Christians had to go in hiding. Over a hundred years later, when Japan was once again open to foreigners, Oura Catholic Church, the oldest wooden church in Japan, was built and dedicated in 1865. Soon after, a group of women identified themselves to the priest as Christians who had been passing down their faith from generation to generation.

After visiting the church, my LOL and I passed Japan's first public telephone. (Unfortunately, I didn't get its installation date). They, of course, had to call home -- I on the other hand, couldn't dial out, and so took a picture instead! We then headed to the Glover House -- the residence of the former British merchant Thomas Glover (1838-1911). Being an influential figure in Japan's foreign trade and having a Japanese wife, Glover is often connected to the similar character in Puccini's opera Madame Butterfly.

Although, there is no actual substantiated connection between Glover and Puccini's character, my LOLs referred to the house as the "butterfly" house and, in fact, in the garden, there was a statue of Puccini with a butterfly on his shoulder. And, as in any activity I participate in with my ladies, singing was involved. (Mihoko is an opera singer/teacher and Kuniko is one of her former students so music is especially important to them). Therefore, we sang a rousing version of the opera's most famous aria to the amusement of our fellow visitors!!

From the Glover House we had a great view of Nagasaki's port and lots of big ships!

Our next stop was the "one-legged" torii gate, nicknamed so because its other side was blasted off by the atomic bomb.

From there we moved on to Urakami Cathedral. Which, according to the brochure, was "once the largest church in the Orient." It was originally built in 1925 after 30 years of labor, but then was destroyed in the bomb. It was later rebuilt with the story behind its rebuilding quite controversial. (In fact, my pastor's wife was worried that as an American, I might not want to the hear the Japanese version. My LOLs told her that I was a big girl and could handle it! Umm... I'm not so sure!)

From there we visited a bit more war history at the Nyokodo Hermitage. This tiny residence was built by the Nagasaki's townspeople for the famous Christian radiologist Dr. Takashi Nagai. Although, he was bedridden from leukemia due to improper exposure to x-ray materials he continued to conduct research from his bed regarding radiation poisoning. (And, if you look closely, you can see me in the picture, too!)

After a visit to the Nagasaki War Museum, a very upset stomach (there is only so much drama one can digest in one day especially when you were considered the enemy in the eyes of the Japanese and your grandfather experienced his own suffering in the Japanese prison camps), we headed to the Peace Park to view a very big traffic guard :-)

Smiles and laughter were in order, and, boy, do my LOL's and I know how to produce it!!!! The below picture is my favorite from the entire trip. As a side note, I successfully asked a French person (in Japanese, mind you) if they could speak English and if they could take the picture. They looked at me like I was a total idiot because they had no idea what I was saying.... In this case, English was a more useful language.

From there we headed to the memorial for 26 Japanese and Portuguese (or as my LOLs pronounced it poltergeist) martyrs who were crucified in Nagasaki in 1597 for not renouncing their Christian faith. Somehow, in one of my more brilliant camera-user moments, I successfully deleted all pictures pertaining to the memorial. However, I did maintain one of a very unusual church nearby.

As the sun set, we headed up one of the mountains in a cable car to experience Nagasaki's "million dollar view" or as the Japanese like to say "Light up (Nagasaki)". Then it was on to "Light up Omura Church."Dinner ended the day with a really cute origami crew team who had toothpicks as paddles.

Then it was off to bed.... I sadly learned that day, that my LOLs have considerably (and I mean considerably) more energy than I. The next morning I would also learn, that they don't like to sleep in!!!!!